What Style of Bustle Is Right for Your Wedding Dress?

Enter the bustle. With hooks, buttons, or ribbons, your seamstress can alter your dress so that the train is out of the way when you need it to be. Be sure to have at least one of your bridesmaids or your mother come along to your final fitting. It’s important that there’s an opportunity for your seamstress to show them how to utilize the bustle properly. You should also bring safety pins to your wedding. Even an excellently sewn bustle can fall apart if someone were to step too hard on your dress. Bustles are made so that the button or hook will pop off if there is too much pressure – otherwise the dress will rip!

There are several different kinds of bustles to choose from. Though a seamstress will know best, the descriptions below should help narrow down which style will make the most sense for your gown.

Over Bustle/American Bustle
This is generally the simplest style, although there are different varieties. A one-point over bustle is best for lighter fabrics because a heavy train of satin would be too much weight for one hook. A three-point bustle will help with heavier fabric, and allow you to see more of a detailed train spread out over the back of the dress. Any number of points can be added to an over bustle; just keep in mind that the price goes up with each additional button. 

Under Bustle/French Bustle
Unlike the over bustle, the buttons or hooks are hidden in this style. The train of the dress is folded under, creating a pick up. This can be done singularly, or with multiple layers. Gowns with A-line or narrow skirts, as well as dresses without a defined waistline, benefit from this method.

Ballroom Bustle and Train Flip Bustle
These two styles fall under “similar but different.” Both are made to eliminate the appearance of a train entirely, but this is done in different ways. A ballroom bustle features multiple points along the bottom of the bodice. It is an extremely secure bustle and a perfect fit for brides who don’t like the look of more traditional bustles. A train flip bustle does literally that: it flips the train underneath so that the gown ends up having the appearance of a floor-length gown, albeit with bit of a bubble skirt.

Austrian Bustle
This style is less common, but is increasing in popularity – possibly due to how easy it is for bridesmaids to do. A ribbon or cord goes down the middle of the train, to be pulled and tied – almost like a window shade! The effect creates a nice almost-ruched style effect, although admittedly looks better on dresses without a particularly detailed skirt.

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